Physiology
The average life span for a rabbit is approximately 5 to 7 years. It should be noted, however, that most sanctuary rabbits come from abusive factory farm conditions and, consequently, may have more health problems and shorter life spans. The approximate size of a rabbit depends on the breed. On the average, adult males (bucks) weigh between 8 and 12 pounds, and adult females (does) weigh between 6 and 10 pounds. Dwarf breeds weigh between 2 and 4 pounds. On a healthy rabbit you should be able to feel the ribs just under the skin without a layer of fat. Also, if folds of skin are not clean, it is usually because the animal is too overweight to groom properly, and should be put on a lower calorie diet. The normal body temperature for rabbits is between 101° F to 103.2° F.

Nutritional Needs
Water - Fresh water must be available at all times. Change water daily; dirty water breeds bacteria that can cause disease. The use of water bottles is not recommended, as they often malfunction. We suggest using a heavy, ceramic-type bowl that will not be easily tipped over, or, for larger numbers of rabbits, use a metal or plastic poultry water fountain.
Salt - A salt lick should always be available. Small, spool-sized salt licks are available at most feed or pet stores.
Feed - Recommended feeding for rabbits is a diet of unlimited fresh grass or Timothy hay, a variety of fresh vegetables and limited pellets. For young rabbits, legume hay such as alfalfa or clover is okay, since they are rich in protein. The following are our recommendations; food requirements will vary according to activity levels and access to pasture.
Vegetables - A good selection of vegetables that can be offered in small to moderate amounts: Basil; Beet greens (tops); Bok choy; Endive; Radish tops; Escarole; Raspberry leaves; Brussels sprouts; Green peppers; Collard greens; Parsley; Peppermint leaves; Raddichio; Watercress; Wheat grass; Celery; Cilantro; Broccoli (leaves/stems); Pea pods (flat, edible kind); Sprouts (alfalfa, radish and clover); Carrot and carrot tops; Dandelion greens and flowers; Romaine lettuce (no iceberg or light-colored leaf). Avoid feeding spinach, cabbage, cauliflower, rape, kale, and mustard greens as regular treats, since they can be toxic over a period of time.Feed a variety of at least three green foods daily to provide a wider range of nutrients to your rabbits. Grass can be included in the three. Feed a minimum of one cup packed green foods per 2 pounds of body weight, one time daily.
Fruits - Rabbits can also be fed a variety of fruits. However, fruit should be limited to one to two tablespoons per 5 pounds of body weight. Sugary fruits such as bananas and grapes should only be given as occasional treats, as rabbits have a sweet tooth and will devour sugary foods to the exclusion of healthful ones. The following fruits are high in fiber and good for rabbits: Blueberries; Melon; Papaya; Peach; Pineapple; Plums; Raspberries; Strawberries; Pear; Apples (remove seeds, they are toxic). Be sure that all fruits and
vegetables are washed thoroughly to remove all traces of pesticides and herbicides. Absolutely no corn, cookies, cabbage, crackers, beans, breakfast cereals, bread, nuts, pasta, peas, popcorn, or other "human treats." There is research that suggests these items may contribute to fatal cases of enterotoxaemia, a toxic overgrowth of "bad" bacteria in the intestinal tract.

Handling
There are a number of ways to pick up your rabbit depending on size and how calm the rabbit is. The main thing to remember is to always support the hindquarters to prevent serious spinal injuries. Rabbits' backbones are fragile and can break when the hind legs are allowed to dangle and the animal gives one strong kick. A good way to pick up a rabbit is to grasp the loose skin over the shoulders and then place your hand under the back legs. Never pick up rabbits by their ears, as the ears are very sensitive. Until you are accustomed to handling your rabbit, always work near the ground, so if the animal does jump from your grasp, she or he does not have far to fall.

Shelter Requirements
Unless they can be closely supervised or you can give them a whole room (that is very well bunny-proofed!) to run about in, we recommend keeping rabbits outside. Rabbits love to dig, chew, jump, and run, and these activities are usually better suited to outdoor accommodations. If you do decide to keep your rabbit indoors, we highly recommend the following book for important tips: House Rabbit Handbook - How to Live with an Urban Rabbit, by Marinell Harriman.
Outdoor Hutch - Outdoor rabbits need a secure rabbit hutch where they should be locked at night for their protection. All windows should be covered with heavy wire — do not use chicken wire, as it is too flimsy. For warm weather, the hutch must be well ventilated. For cold weather, the hutch should be free of drafts and supplied with plenty of warm bedding. Rabbit hutches should be at least 4' x 8' (larger if more than two rabbits) and have a solid wooden floor. Rabbits should never be completely confined to their hutch and need exercise to remain healthy. Rabbits who are confined become obese, get inflamed feet, have poor bone density, can develop gastrointestinal and urinary dysfunction, and have severe behavioral problems.
Bedding - Straw or hardwood shavings make the best bedding. We do not recommend the use of either pine or cedar bedding, nor products containing pine or cedar oils, as these products have been shown to cause liver damage. Damp and soiled bedding should be removed daily. Leaving wet or soiled straw in their house can lead to urine burns, flies and a host of other problems. Often rabbits will use a litter box if provided, and this will greatly facilitate daily cleaning.
Fencing - Strong, solid fencing is very important for rabbits to ensure protection from predators. Since rabbits love to dig, you will need to secure the base of the fence by placing logs around the perimeter and securing the fence to the logs. You should bury the fence 12-inches in the ground. Regularly check your rabbit pasture for holes and fill them in immediately to prevent tunneling outside of the enclosed area. For warm weather, the fenced area should have plenty of shade.

Health Care
Maintenance - Regular brushing will help keep your rabbit's skin and hair healthy, and reduce hairball problems (more common in indoor rabbits). An inch strand of Petromalt placed on your animals' paw once a week will also aid in the prevention of hairballs. Rabbits need to be checked for overgrown teeth and nails. To minimize these problems, provide your rabbit with plenty of dirt to dig in and a chunk of wood to gnaw on. Firewood with bark and small tree branches are the best bet, although never give your rabbit cherry, apricot, peach, or redwood, which are toxic to your rabbit. Your veterinarian can trim nails and teeth for you (and teach you how to do this safely). Sanitary housing, clean pasture, nutritious food, and plenty of sunshine will reduce health problems. During your daily contact with your rabbit, always check for any physical or behavioral changes. In particular, watch for diarrhea, listlessness, pale coloring, limping, loss of appetite, weight loss (check your rabbits' weight monthly), coughing, or abnormal temperatures. If any of these symptoms occur, consult with your veterinarian.

Common health problems
When your rabbit is stressed, his or her immune system can become compromised, letting bacteria take hold and causing infections. Signs to look for are loss of appetite, abscesses, fever of 103.1° F or higher, urine-soaked fur, runny nose and eyes, sneezing, lethargy, and labored breathing. Rabbits do tend to mask illness well, so knowing your rabbit's individual "normal behaviors" and checking them regularly is imperative.
Pasteurellosis - A large percentage of rabbits harbor a bacterium in their sinuses and upper respiratory tract called Pasteurella multocida. This bacterium doesn't cause a problem in most rabbits with a healthy immune system. However, under certain stressful conditions, such as poor diet, high environmental temperatures, poor air circulation, overcrowding, or moving, this bacteria can reproduce rapidly and cause potentially serious disease. Have your rabbit examined if you observe any discharges around the eyes, nose or anal area, or if there is a loss of appetite, depression, diarrhea, head tilt, loss of balance, or labored breathing. NEVER attempt to use antibiotics without veterinary supervision. A rabbit's intestinal tract is an extremely delicate organ, dependent on large
populations of healthy bacteria to digest food. Antibiotics may kill the normal bacteria in the gut, thus allowing the overgrowth of deadly bacteria.
Snuffles - Snuffles causes a nasal discharge with staining of the front legs, due to attempts to clean the nose, and may be accompanied by watery eyes, sneezing and coughing. "Snuffles" is a form of Pasteurella and should be immediately treated. Seek veterinary advice if you notice any of these symptoms. If left untreated, snuffles can cause death.
Abscesses - These are not uncommon in rabbits, especially those with chronic, recurring pasteurella. These abscesses are filled with thick, yellow-gray fluid and usually need to be surgically removed. They can occur anywhere on the body or extremities. Never leave an abscess untreated and, when treating, do so aggressively. Consult your veterinarian if you notice any unusual lumps developing, since many have to be surgically removed and antibiotic treatment could be required. Your veterinarian can show you how to
properly treat abscesses that do not require surgery, but need to be cleaned and maintained daily.
Coccidiosis - This is a serious disease in rabbits in which an internal parasite affects either the liver or intestines. Signs include loss of weight, diarrhea, potbelly, and a dull coat. If you see any of these symptoms, take your rabbit to your veterinarian immediately. Coccidiosis can be fatal.
Fly Strike - Fly strike can be fatal, and any rabbit with an open wound should be kept indoors, especially during fly season. Flies lay eggs in the wounds of rabbits, which hatch into maggots that burrow into the rabbit's flesh. Even without open wounds, fly strike can be a problem, especially if rabbits have urine or feces-soaked hair. If you have outdoor rabbits, check their fur daily for fly eggs (they look like sesame seeds) and feel their whole bodies for cuts, or wet areas that could be prone to fly strike. If you have fly strike, your rabbit should be taken to a veterinarian immediately for treatment. Cat flea powder or sprays designed for cats and kittens can be used to deter flies. Speak to your vet before using any of these types of medications on your rabbit.
Ear Mites - Check the ears periodically for scabs in the ears or for a brownish, waxy buildup; clear wax is normal. If you suspect mites, take your rabbit to a veterinarian to confirm the diagnosis. Ivermectin can be used to eliminate mites, and your vet can provide the proper dosage. All mites can be reccurring, since they may be in the rabbit's environment.
Fur Mites - If you notice balding patches or scaly skin spots, a vet should do a skin scraping to determine if your rabbit has fur mites. Treatment is the same as with ear mites, but topical treatments for itching and hair loss are available from your veterinarian.

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