Physiology
The average life span for a goat is approximately 12 to 14 years. However, most Sanctuary animals come from abusive factory farm conditions and, consequently, may have more health problems and shorter life spans. Mature female goats (does) of the larger breeds (including Alpines, Nubians, Saaeen, and LaManchas) generally weigh between 135 to 150 pounds. Larger breed mature male goats (bucks) generally weigh between 150 to 175 pounds. Smaller breed females, such as Pygmy goats, weigh between 40 to 60 pounds, and the males weigh between 60 to 70 pounds. A goat's normal body temperature is 101° F to 102° F.

Nutritional Needs
Water - Clean, fresh water must always be available to your goats. Use heavy containers to avoid spilling. Although initially expensive, you may want to invest in an automatic watering system.
Minerals - Minerals are one of the most important factors in providing proper nutrition for your goat. Goat minerals come in different forms, including loose minerals or mineral blocks. If you are keeping sheep and goats together, make sure that the minerals you use are formulated for both sheep and goats, since sheep cannot tolerate copper, but copper is an essential nutrient for goats.
Feed - Goats are ruminants (multi-stomached animals) and, consequently, rely mainly on hay or pasture for their dietary needs. They require at least eight hours of grazing time per day. Grain is very high in fat, and, therefore, we do not recommend its use on a regular basis.
Pasture - The best goat pastures include clovers and mixed grasses, in addition to plenty of twigs, saplings, brush, and trees. Goats do not like (and it is not good for them) to ingest lush grasses alone. If necessary, supplement their pasture with plenty of browsing materials. Goats particularly relish fruit tree prunings and wild grape vines. Before pasturing, be sure to remove all plants that are poisonous to goats. Contact your County Agriculture Extension Agent for a complete listing of poisonous plants in your area. If adequate pasture is not available, feed your goat grass hay such as Timothy. Alfalfa hay is very high-protein hay and should only be used for sick or debilitated animals. Adult goats need two to four pounds of hay per day. To locate a source of hay in your area, check with your County Agriculture Extension Agent for a listing of hay/straw auctions or look in the farming section of your local paper. It is less expensive per bale if you can buy in large quantities; therefore, it is well worth the investment to build some type of hay storage building or loft.

Handling
When working with goats, be very calm and gentle in your approach. Goats are nervous animals by nature, and will spook easily if you yell or handle them roughly. When handling your goats, use a rope halter (available at farm supply stores or through catalogs). If your goats have horns, these can also be held to control them. If possible, it is best to have someone available to assist you. Once caught, some goats respond better when lying down, with someone cradling their head. Positive reinforcement will lead to a better response from your goats in the future.

Shelter Requirements
Building - A large barn or shed makes a fine shelter for goats. Allow at least 25-square-feet per goat, and be sure the shelter has good ventilation and no direct drafts. Always provide your goats with plenty of clean, dry straw for bedding. Remove damp and soiled straw daily, replacing it with fresh straw.
Fencing - In addition to adequate shelter, you will need a fenced-in area. This is particularly important in areas where there are wandering dogs, as a dog can kill a goat in a matter of minutes. Goats can die due to stress, and the stress of being chased by a dog can be fatal to a goat. Goats are notorious for escaping, so some people only use a tight, five-foot high woven fence. This is costly but worth considering if you are not home most of the time. Do not use cattle fencing with larger square openings, since goats tend to stick their heads through and can easily get stuck. Barbed wire or electric fencing should never be used in goat enclosures, as goats become very easily entangled in it and it is not sufficient for keeping predators out.
Tethering - Tethering your goats (putting them on a long leash) is not recommended, as it can be stressful. Tethering can also be very dangerous, as goats can hang themselves on a tether.
Pasture - We recommend one acre of land for every two goats. This may vary, depending on the amount of pasture versus the amount of hay you want to utilize. For warm weather, the fenced area must have plenty of shade. Be sure to fence in any shade trees you want to keep, as goats are great landscapers and the trees will not last unless they are protected.

Health Care
Maintenance - Every five to six weeks, goats should get a routine, individual health check and have some basic health care procedures done. These include: Hoof trimming; ear cleaning; feeling the body for lumps and bumps; checking udders on females for heat, hardness, swelling, or discharge; checking eyes for any injury, ulcers or discharge; brushing; checking horn growth for any areas of horn touching the skin; and checking teeth, especially on older goats. Goats are relatively easy to take care of, and sanitary housing, good quality pasture, nutritious food, and plenty of sunshine will help to reduce health problems. During your daily contact with your goats, always be on the lookout for any physical or behavioral changes. Symptoms indicating illness include: Loss of appetite; limping; listlessness; labored breathing; diarrhea; discharge from eyes or nose; or abnormal body temperature. If any of these symptoms occur, consult your veterinarian immediately.
Vaccines - Make sure your goats are vaccinated for Rabies, Tetanus and Clostridium (CTD). The rabies vaccine can be hard on goats; therefore, the other vaccinations should be given at least one month before or after the rabies vaccine.

Common Health Problems
Upper Respiratory Infection - A respiratory infection is any condition which affects the goat's breathing apparatus, including the nose, trachea/windpipe, bronchi, and lungs. Symptoms include nasal discharge, excessive coughing or sneezing, loss of appetite, and raised body temperatures. If any of these symptoms occur, consult with your veterinarian immediately.
Coccidiosis - Coccidia are a protozoan parasite which, when present in small numbers, cause very little damage to goats, as most adult goats are infected and immune. However, kids are extremely susceptible and an acute form of this parasite can cause death. For more information on this and other specific parasites, see our shelter website.
Abscess - Abscesses are localized pockets of infection filled with pus, usually caused by wounds or cuts, which have penetrated the skin. They are indicated by swellings or lumps found below the skin and could be anywhere on the goat's body. Should you notice any unusual lumps or swelling, isolate your goat from the herd and contact your veterinarian. For information on CL, go to our shelter website.
Bloat - This is a serious condition commonly caused by overeating grain or new pasture. Preventative steps should be taken to stop bloat from occurring. Do not put goats out on new pasture until their digestive systems are adjusted to that type of food. Be especially careful with fields of rapidly growing plants such as alfalfa and clover. Gradually introduce goats to new pasture by letting them out only a few hours a day for the first week and supplementing them with hay. Make sure that the field is not wet, as a wet field is more likely to cause bloat than a dry field. Make sure feed barrels and bags are completely inaccessible. The first obvious symptoms of bloat are distension of the rumen of the left side, labored breathing and signs of discomfort such as kicking, grinding teeth, bawling, and profuse salivation. Any evidence of bloating should be deemed an emergency and your vet should be contacted immediately.
CAE/Caprine Arthritis and Encephalitis - CAE is a viral infection that manifests itself as arthritis in adult goats, although it is usually contracted when the goat is nursing as a kid. Many infections, such as mastitis, pneumonia and chronic wasting diseases, have been linked to this virus. CAE is widespread in dairy goats, and often animals brought into sanctuaries from these farms carry the virus. The signs of CAE in adult goats include swollen joints and lameness, and can come on suddenly. Infected goats usually lose a large amount of weight and their coats get dull and rough. As the disease progresses, paralysis, depression, head tilt, and circling can be seen. There is no real treatment but supportive care can be beneficial. The use of pain medication may also be required to keep the goat comfortable. See our shelter website for more information.
Hoof Rot - Hoof rot is a fungal infection of the hoof. It is more prevalent during wet seasons or when goats spend long periods of time on wet grounds. One or more hooves can be infected at any time. Symptoms include lameness, swelling between claws and an elevated temperature. If left untreated, the foot will begin to "rot," revealing a foul-smelling discharge. By tending to your goat's hooves on a regular basis and by keeping bedding clean and dry, you will help prevent the occurrence of hoof rot. Treatment includes trimming off the rotted areas and applying Kopertox or other solution recommended by your vet. Antibiotics may also be necessary.
Mastitis - Mastitis is an inflammation of the mammary glands caused by bacteria. Acute mastitis symptoms include an elevated temperature and a hot, hard, swollen udder. Your goat's udder will probably feel very tender. This is generally only a problem with goats that have been lactating. Seek veterinary advice if you notice any of the above symptoms.

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